Dermaplaning might be trending, but it isn’t new. This non-invasive exfoliation technique for removing dead skin cells and pesky peach fuzz has been a go-to treatment of professional estheticians for decades, and LJC’s licensed aesthetician Janine swears by it.
When combined with a HydraFacial, Janine considers this pairing the “happily married couple” of skin care treatments, as they complement each other perfectly.
She recommends a combination treatment each month, or alternating between HydraFacial and dermaplaning treatments once a month to keep your skin smooth, bright, and fuzz-free.
Janine takes us through other treatments that combine well with dermaplaning, how to prepare for it, and why the $1 Tinkle razor or any at-home exfoliation tools don’t even come close.
If you’re interested in trying dermaplaning, we’ll give you $25 off if you add it to your med spa treatment with us. Book your appointment!
Learn more about dermaplaning at La Jolla Cosmetic
See a close-up of dermaplaning in action on our Instagram
Meet Carlsbad licensed aesthetician Janine Kier
Speaker 1 (00:07):
You are listening to The La Jolla Cosmetic Podcast.
Monique Ramsey (00:14):
Welcome everyone to The La Jolla Cosmetic Podcast. I’m your hostess, Monique Ramsey, and today I get to welcome back one of my favorite people and Janine, Janine Kier. She’s one of our aestheticians. She’s up in Carlsbad. And we’re going to do today a deep dive into dermaplaning and some treatments that you love to combine with it. So are you ready for that, Janine?
Janine Kier (00:41):
I am so ready. Absolutely.
Monique Ramsey (00:44):
Awesome. Okay, so first, if you’ll explain to people if they’ve never heard of it or had it done, what is dermaplaning?
Janine Kier (00:52):
So dermaplaning is a form of exfoliation via a means of, basically it’s a small little scalpel butter knife blade that we use to both remove the vellus peach fuzz in addition to all those dead skin cells. It is an incredible anti-aging treatment that has been around. Somebody asked me recently too, Monique, how long has it been around? And I want to say at least that I’m aware, I’ve been in the field now 25 years, if you can believe it. So it’s been easily a good 30, if not 40 years plus. So around that timeframe, it’s no stranger. It’s been around, but it is a non-invasive form of exfoliation that will gently remove again, the peach Fs in addition to dead skin cells effortlessly and more effectively than what you can see at either, oh, I found this at Marshalls or Ulta. So it’s medical grade in that the blade will remove dead skin cells so much greater, more effectively than which I’ve been asked to, can this take the place of, or can I use a twin big blade, a razor, basically? And the answer is no, it’s not going to do that.
Monique Ramsey (02:04):
Okay. I brought props today.
Janine Kier (02:06):
Monique Ramsey (02:07):
This funny little thing. It’s called a tinkle razor. Not quite sure how they came up with that name for it, but they call it an eyebrow razor. But I’ve seen these things all over the internet and our podcast producer, Eva swears by it, she loves these things, so they’re like a dollar each. So how does that compare to what you would do in the office?
Janine Kier (02:34):
Oh, there is no comparison. Absolutely. It’s like comparing a bike to a Tesla. I mean, honestly, it really is. Yes, you might get a few little stray hairs. My biggest fear and concern is any form of infection or cut or abrasion. A lot of us tend to go too aggressively. And I will have to admit, Monique, my daughter, beautiful daughter of 18 years of age, who I told her she’s a bit too young to start. And especially if there’s acne, there’s contraindications. So not everybody can dermaplane, but if there is of course of no pustules, no acne, especially when it’s what we call grade three and up acne, you want to avoid. But ultimately it is a form of exfoliation, especially on non acneic skin too, that will remove dead skin cells that build up and if those are built up there can lead to pustules and worsen. So she’s actually purchased this before, so that was a concern that I was like, oh my goodness. But she realizes it’s taking off a few hairs, but my worry is there’s an infection if there’s some form of cut or abrasion or sometimes young ladies can go too aggressively or young women can go too aggressively. So you really, I would avoid those at all costs if you can.
Monique Ramsey (03:57):
Okay. So the dollar, it’s not worth it.
Janine Kier (03:59):
It’s so not worth it. And Monique, when you have the actual treatment, it’s night and day and every time there’s someone who’s been doing that and then they try the dermaplane, sure thing, they’re like, oh my goodness. That was just, I’m like, I told you, the skin is left so much smoother. And we actually have ladies who come in that are, Hey, can I do dermaplane as a form of anti-aging? Absolutely. Especially mature ladies. Or if you’re going through hormone replacement menopause, oftentimes you see that hair growth and especially if it’s blonde and they’re not a candidate for laser hair removal, perfect candidate for that as well too. And it’s actually really relaxing. A lot of people ask me, so does it hurt? I’m like, more often, Monique, I have ladies who fall asleep and I’m like, Hey, you start shaking when you’re sleeping. You can’t. I’m holding a blade. You can’t do that. So it’s like, I’m sorry. So I didn’t expect it to be so relaxing. So yeah.
Monique Ramsey (05:00):
Now how long does it take for one of the treatments and are there different versions of the treatment?
Janine Kier (05:05):
Yeah, we offer two different versions. So there is going to be the dermaplane standard and dermaplane plus the standard is roughly about a good 30 minutes. And that’s from start to finish with a thorough cleanse and we follow with gentle topicals. The plus will involve a finishing mask, and it’s one of which whether myself or the other aestheticians choose, which would be appropriate for one skin type and what’s going on with the skin. But it’s generally for the most part, very gentle mass that’s applied with some steam. And then I follow with topicals too. So it is one thing, especially, and I know women can clue into this, when you have that removal of dead skin cells and the facial hair, the vellus peach fuzz, and we treat all over, the only area I don’t treat is the nose, but upper lip, jawline, feather it down in this area, it leaves the skin like glass, so it has wear makeup or CC cream, tinted sunblock, whatever you fancy. When that sits, it’s beautiful. It actually, it’s such a beautiful treatment have done before even an event. So usually when there’s major events, weddings, something where, okay, I can’t be potentially pink or have any irritation, at least a good five days prior, that would be perfect, 72 hours. If you’re traveling, that’s fine. But very light pinkness to the skin. Gentle products, ideally growth factors, TNS essential serum, bio cream, Neocutis would be fabulous to use.
Monique Ramsey (06:38):
Now, one of the things that I’ve heard you can do, and I guess that dermaplaning, because you say you’re really not just taking care of the hair, it’s exfoliating the skin and getting all those dead skin cells off. So I would think that that could make a great adjunct to another procedure in terms of would it make a peel stronger or another procedure more effective and do people combine?
Janine Kier (07:06):
Absolutely. You nailed it. Seriously. I’m asked that all the time, and it will compliment any of the treatments that the providers are doing, whether it’s Morpheus, halo, B B L. The two most, oh, they’re my absolute favorite: Derma plane, HydraFacial, those two hands down. I always say, Monique, it’s like happy married couple. They just work. It works. It really is it just one of the, if you haven’t had that, it is so worthwhile to try, would be done first, immediately followed with HydraFacial or Dermaplaning with a chemical peel. Now, when it is a chemical peel, it should be a more specific chemical peel because there are potential slight abrasions with the skin. So the one in preference that I choose would be one like the VI peel that has a numbing ingredient. So as I apply the peel, you’re not going, okay, I am in pain. This is stinging. It’s actually the opposite. Yeah, yeah, we don’t want that. So a peel such as that would help to numb and then I apply the layers. So yeah, it is definitely absolutely incredible appeal to prep prior to any treatment actually.
Monique Ramsey (08:16):
And then is there anybody, you mentioned earlier acne, anybody who should avoid dermaplaning at any point?
Janine Kier (08:24):
So there are cases of depending on the level grade of acne that myself and the other aestheticians would at that point let that patient know too if they’re a candidate. And acne would be one that could be a contraindication depending on the grade. Again, rosacea skin types, that would also be dependent on the level rosacea. But for the most part, it tends to be appropriate for all skin types. There have been some women who’ve had very, very, I mean this is one in 20 years that I’ve ever treated where she had extreme coarseness to the hair due to hormones. And so then that might be, but it’s few and far between. Thankfully, it has been more for the population at hand so that they can do it.
Monique Ramsey (09:09):
Okay. And now I remember, so this goes way back and this talks about how far back dermaplaning goes. So back in 1994, we all went to Biomedic school and Biomedic, one of the protocols in those treatments was dermaplaning. And so we learned how to do it and we were dermaplaning how to hold the razor and doing our legs. We were doing our thigh.
Janine Kier (09:38):
Oh I remember.
Monique Ramsey (09:38):
There’s this whole conference room where people were all like dermaplaning our thigh. So we were doing it in our clinic, all the nurses that were doing the treatments. And we would have people come back and say, my hair grew back thicker or my hair grew back darker. And is that true?
Janine Kier (09:57):
In 25 years in skincare, dermaplane, I’ve never heard that. So I’m asked that all the time. And what I always tell everyone, no one would come back. No one would come back. Literally.
Monique Ramsey (10:09):
Janine Kier (10:10):
And typically saying Monique too with hair. So interesting with hair, it’s usually when you’re pulling it by its root, by the papilla that it can change the growth pattern and it could be either positive or negative. And I’m sure you’ve had friends I know I have who have told me, Hey Janine, I’ve waxed throughout the years or plucked and now I barely have hair growing some areas or the opposite. So having said that, threading waxing, once you start with that course, it can go one way or it can go another. So that’s why I tell when it comes to dermaplane, it’s theoretically you’re shaving the hair again with a blade that is specifically really expoing the skin versus just a twin Bic blade. Of course. So I personally haven’t heard that and I have yet to have anyone come back and tell me that and they always come back. But if anything, I will say this though, in all honesty, everyone says the same thing. It’s like getting Botox, Janine, once you start, there’s no going back. Because seriously, once it’s gone you’re like, yes, this feels, feels so nice. It’s absolutely.
Monique Ramsey (11:19):
Well, and like you say, if it really helps your products penetrate better, if it helps whatever other treatments you’re doing, be stronger. And if it also just makes your makeup lie better, and then who wouldn’t want to do it?
Janine Kier (11:33):
Monique, that I’m sure you’ve heard too. It’s all over social media, glass skin. So if that is giving the ultimate glass skin. So it is definitely, if there are viewers, listeners out there that are women who have been hesitant, and I actually have derma plane men too, of course we derma plane men from here up. So it’s forehead maybe between the brows, high cheekbones. But I would avoid the beard and mustache area because of the coarseness of the hair itself. But if there is some areas that, hey, I have some hair growth, that is very fine. Absolutely. It’s a fabulous treatment.
Monique Ramsey (12:14):
Good. And I wouldn’t think for guys that if they shave regularly, they’re sort of dermaplaning in those areas.
Janine Kier (12:24):
Monique Ramsey (12:25):
But they would still want to get everywhere else. And maybe that’s, that’s why men never age, maybe that’s
Janine Kier (12:31):
It’s so true. Yes, it’s so good for their skin.
Monique Ramsey (12:33):
Janine Kier (12:35):
I know. Another treatment too, and I don’t want to overlook. It’s a great add-on also for the Diamond Glow. Diamond Glow and dermaplane together is a little bit more of an intense exfoliation. But myself and the aestheticians would know which specific diamond grit to choose because you have basically, I say metal on metal, which is true diamonds, but so it’s a bit deeper. If somebody goes or tells me they would like something a little bit stronger of an exfoliation, I would refer them to the Diamond Glow as well, if they wanted an add-on.
Monique Ramsey (13:07):
But if they had a wedding in three days, we wouldn’t.
Janine Kier (13:09):
Oh yeah. No, you could still, you really could, depending myself, Cam, Brittany would know which diamond grit to choose in great hands. Oh, absolutely. Especially if there’s,
Monique Ramsey (13:19):
Oh, so there’s different levels of
Janine Kier (13:20):
Oh, absolutely. There are different grit tips. So some are going to be more gentler, refined for sensitive skin. But typically I always go a bit more conservative with dermaplaning because that’s such a deeper exfoliation. So just to keep it, especially for an event, you want to make sure you’re going for the glow and not redness.
Monique Ramsey (13:40):
And then if you’re going to have it done, you go home, what do you finish the skin with? And then could they go out that night with makeup or would you want them to lay off of something for a while?
Janine Kier (13:53):
Rule of thumb is typically you would want your skin makeup free if you could for a few hours thereafter. But if there is, Hey, I have to jet out. I am literally heading to a cocktail party. I am taking a flight out, whatever it might be. Everyone’s so busy nowadays. So you absolutely could follow with makeup. Ideally, I would say let your skin breathe. We always follow with topicals that are healing, soothing growth factors, and of course sunblock if it’s during the day, but for the next 72 hours, I always recommend avoid your actives if you will. Meaning, for example, alpharet, your retinols, retinoic acid, glycolic cell, any of those, wait easily 72 hours anywhere between three to five days would be perfect. But certainly you have that pinky glow and it is an incredible treatment and it’s very gratifying to even give. And as I’ve given even employees here, what do they call it? Oh my gosh, there’s a name, Monique, that the girls have said: tumbleweeds as I’m doing the dermaplane, they’re like,
Monique Ramsey (14:57):
Janine Kier (14:59):
Wow, the hair, it builds up like little tumbleweeds, so it’s so cute. It’s like the names they come up with.
Monique Ramsey (15:05):
I think Krissy took some video of one really close up, and so we’ll try to link that in the show notes because it was really the little part I saw that was cool.
Janine Kier (15:16):
It’s so gratifying. It really is. And if I show any patient, they’re like, oh, good grief. And I’m like, I know, but within the hairs though, Monique, you can actually see the dead skin and they literally look like snowflakes. I’m like, doesn’t it look like little snowflakes? It’s just, it really is impressive.
Monique Ramsey (15:34):
Oh, that’s cool. Like a little snowplow going through.
Janine Kier (15:37):
Monique Ramsey (15:38):
So I think we covered really what this is, and so I want to make an offer to the audience that if you’re interested in trying Dermaplaning, we will give you $25 off when you’re adding it on to a procedure. So if you’re going to do it with Diamond Glow, if you’re going to do it with HydraFacial, we’ll do $25 off and you won’t be using one of these at home. We’re going to
Janine Kier (16:05):
Monique Ramsey (16:06):
Which was that tinkle blade razor. Sorry for the audience only listening. It’s this little hot pink, light pink thing. It’s probably really dangerous in some hands, honestly.
Janine Kier (16:21):
Yes, no, it is completely. I can’t stress the difference. It really is.
Monique Ramsey (16:30):
So I shouldn’t go back into my bathroom right now and go play with it. So we’ll give you $25 off. Just mention this episode, and if you’ve never tried it before then that’s a little nice little gift.
Janine Kier (16:42):
So worth it. Don’t be scared for anybody. Again, it’s pain free, it’s an immediate gratification. All your products work so much more effectively and if there’s makeup, cc cream, anything, absolutely. It’s once it starts to come back, which by the way, do you want to address? Everyone asks, well, how frequently? Typically speaking, it’s three to six weeks apart. So hair growth can vary from person to person, but generally you see the growth come back within two and a half to three weeks. So you can either combine it always with, which tends to love with the HydraFacial Diamond Glow, or hey, can I alternate? In other words, have one month, I’m coming in for a Diamond Glow the next month. Or HydraFacial, however your skin you feel, whether it comes back, but it is as quickly I should say, it’s amazing. It’s amazing treatment to alternate.
Monique Ramsey (17:34):
Good. Alright, well everybody, that is our quick little fun episode and deep dive into dermaplaning and all things exfoliating. So thanks everyone, and look in the show notes, we’ll have links to procedure information, how to schedule, and you’ll also maybe find that video. We want to find that video for everybody.
Janine Kier (17:56):
Link it. That’s just, yeah. Then they’ll be like, now I know what she means by the tumbleweeds.
Monique Ramsey (18:00):
Yeah. Yeah. So we’ll do that. Alright everybody, thanks a lot.
Janine Kier (18:05):
Monique Ramsey (18:06):
Speaker 1 (18:10):
Take a screenshot of this podcast episode with your phone and show it at your consultation or appointment or mention the promo code PODCAST to receive $25 off any service or product of $50 or more at La Jolla Cosmetic. La Jolla cosmetic is located just off the I-5 San Diego Freeway in the XiMed building on the Scripps Memorial Hospital campus. To learn more, go to lj csc.com or follow the team on Instagram @ljcsc. The La Jolla Cosmetic Podcast is a production of The Axis.